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Hello all,
Anybody else on the forums go surfing too?
I thought I’d ask because after a week of fighting for my life against 12 foot walls of angry water, I’m not all that frightened of angry humans anymore.
Not noticed any “adrenaline dump” though, just good old fashioned fear of dying.
dunc
Re: surfing
I surfed during the early high school years, even surfed some 12ish waves in a storm set down in baja california (ok so i mostly just got thrown around wasnt alot surfing actually happening) now im 30 and my friend wants me to start up again since he just moved near the beach. I’m hoping being older and less of a spaz will help me surf a little better. I live in San Diego Usually surfed oceanside pier, warm water (carlsbad power station), and del mar
Re: surfing
“not much actual surfing”
yup, that would be me.
still, getting sucked over the falls is character building.
I’ve only been doing this for 2 years now, so I’m a sort of geriatric grom.
Been to carlsbad a couple of times, and del mar and swamis. It’s all good as far as I’m concerned.
I’m pretty sure its good cross training for Krav too, upper body and fear.
You should get back in the water, the dolphins are still keeping the sharks at bay.
all the best
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